Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
